Fighting fish and how to care

Continued from the last entry, whichever is the nature of the game fish. Breeds there are many types of game fish in fact, such variety halfmoon, crown tail, short tail, double tail and fighting fish and other wild game species.

Why fighting fish received? 

Fighting fish well received due to the beauty and uniqueness of the color and pattern etched on the wings and the higher price if both these factors to the surface. Flipper game is also approaching a half moon shape is like a beautiful fan at the age of two and a half months until four months of the most beautiful and awaited by fans.

Price of a fighting fish? 

The highest price ever recorded so far, a fighting fish at RM250 which is the best grade while fighting fish in the middle price is up to RM100 to RM200.

Commercially care rather complicated. 

In fact, fighting fish care is rather complicated and fussy, especially in terms of water treatment and food are two important aspects in ensuring the percent of living children a high game fish. Water, eg need to be replaced every other day, while the food is to be given twice daily.

In addition to ensuring that the water content that is not too much, they also need to chlorine-free either technology or on anti-chlorine filters available in the market. If using regular tap water, it should be left in advance for at least 2 to 3 days before it can be used.

Food was given in the morning and evening either red worms or larvae. Red worms can also be found in any of the ornamental fish shop in tablet form and should be witted before given to fighting fish. However, do not need fighting fish fed pallet as it affects water quality.

Male fighting fish, more beautiful and larger than females and usually occurs after mating game fish reaches the age of about three months. For the purpose of mating, male and female fighting fish will be placed in the same container for about two to three days and mating is assured when a female fighting fish fighting fish away from the male.

Currently, female fighting fish fighting fish will be separated and the male will be allowed to keep fish eggs in the foam until the hatch is about a few days later. Once hatched the fry, which amounted to hundreds of birds will be isolated to prevent the fish meal by adult males and placed in larger containers.

How to care in the breeding process:
These fish grow and how to lay their eggs attached to the substrate such as plant roots, leaves or fibers rapia.

Measures need to know: 

1. Choose a good parent and a beautiful and aggressive male. 
2. Split between male parent and female parent and be fed for 4 sd 5 days. 
3. Enter the male parent and female parent spawning site depth (toples, aquarium, bucket, sink), which was given water plants (eceng mumps or fiber rapia with ± 25 cm water depth). 
4. After 2-3 days you'll see the eggs on its leaves or rapia.
5. Move the female and adequate feed. 
6. For 2-3 days the fish are not fed because there is egg in her preparation. 
7. For 2-3 days and the fry should be fed infosuria for 3 days then fed filtered water fleas for 10 days and after that you can be without filtered water bug.

Master of fish fed well enough, after 2-3 weeks can be moved back. Sons of game fish can be sold after the age of 2 months.

Warning: 

1. Do not put anything - any rock in the tank mate. 
2. Plants are very important. 
3. After mating, males will chase the female fish from the nest - the nest. At present, it is best if the female fish taken out of the tank.
4. After the fry are free swimming, remove the males from the tank. Fry will grow up in the tank mate.

Regardless of all the more need substantial capital to make this fight fish farming. Aspects to be considered are food, shelter, water, and the right temperature. Anyway, if there are sufficient knowledge, a complete analysis and collaboration with several parties. Keep only your efforts.

Maintaining Ornamental Shrimp

Ornamental Shrimp Conservation Tips

Four important things to note, before keeping ornamental shrimp: 

• Good aeration .
• Cycle a great aquarium (aquarium filter is adequate and mature) .
• Does not include plant "dirty", the new etc.
• Do not add too many addictive substances.

Preparation of materials: 

• Aquarium (minimum length 60cm) 
• UGF filter (personal recommendation) 
• Canister (optional) 
• Aerator (if not wearing a canister) 
• Power head (if not wearing a canister or aerator) 
• Soil / substrate / sand - Read recommendations substrate 
• 0.5 x volume of aqua lights. For example aquarium 90liter - 40-45 watt lamps (personal recommendation)

Having the right setup is very important for ornamental shrimp, this is one determinant of your ornamental shrimp populations.

An aquarium is mature (well cycled) usually takes about 30 days of initial setup. Of course, this process can be accelerated by using the old media into the new aquarium. But this is not recommended unless you are sure that the media of the old aquarium is really safe, because the old media may contain unknown parasites or viruses that can be harmful to the shrimp.

Instead, it would be better to include a variety of bacterial powder, nitro-baster, bio-bacteria, or even some basic fertilizer for aquarium. Try as much as micro-and macro-organisms can breed in the aquarium.

There are many models for shrimp aquarium setup. The main difference is its average in the filtration (the filter used). 

• Under gravel filtration (UGF) is supported by the canister. 
• Filtration using a sponge 
• Filtration using a HOB (hang on back)
• A combination of filtration canister

My favorite is the under gravel filtration using a power head or the aerator. Combined with a canister or UGF. My recommendation if sufficient budget, please use the UGF + Canister, but if you can use to setup middle UGF with power head or aerator.

Installation sequence is:

• UGF (under gravel filter)
• Cover with mesh
• Substrate / Soil / Sand - (read the recommendation of substrate)

 Do not forget to keep the temperature at 24-26

Marine Reef Aquariums Made Easy

You may need a heater for the aquarium. Whether or not you need one depends on how warm your aquarium will stay without a heater. If you can maintain at least 72° F (22° C) you can usually get by without one. Lighting systems will transfer some heat to the water, so even though the room temperature is only 70° F (21° C) your aquarium will usually be several degrees warmer. Make sure you invest in a thermometer.

You will need a hydrometer to measure for salt level content. Marineland™ makes a new re-designed hydrometer that I recommend for Nano/Mini reefs. We try to maintain a specific gravity (salinity) of 1.023 to 1.024 in our aquariums. Instant Ocean® and Reef Crystals® are our preferred salts. You should first add water and salt to your aquarium and let it mix overnight with the power filter running. The next morning test the salinity. Add more salt to raise the salinity if necessary, or take out some water and add fresh water to lower the salinity. Let it mix another hour and test again. Once the salinity is at the desired level you can then start adding livestock.

There are 3 trace elements you should add on a regular basis. Calcium, Strontium, and Iodine are the trace elements we add at least once a week to our reef tanks. Calcium and Strontium are added for the stony corals, as they will strip these trace elements out of the water for there stony skeleton, and Iodine is needed for shrimps and crabs, so they can molt properly.



The best substrate for the reef aquarium is very fine aragonite (coral) sand at a depth of 2 to 3 inches (7.5cm). A 50-pound bag covers 325 square inches at about 3 inches or 10 pounds will cover 65 square inches. A typical 20-gallon would require about 45 pounds, and a typical 10 gallon would require 30 pounds. Why the fine aragonite sand? The number one reason is, once microorganisms colonize the sand it will start reducing nitrate (NO3). The lower depth of the sand bed houses anaerobic bacteria that use the oxygen atom on the nitrate molecule to breathe. The sand will slowly be turned over by small organisms that live in the sand bed. This will allow the water to slowly be exchanged in the lower sand bed, allowing an anaerobic condition to exist. Large forms of gravel will allow to quick of a water change over for an anaerobic condition to take place. It can be done, but it would require an extremely thick bed.



Live Rock and/or Live Sand and/or Bio-Spira from Marineland should be added to the aquarium after the salinity has been set. This will help seed the aquarium with beneficial bacteria that will break down ammonia and nitrite. The base Live Rock should be in contact with the bottom of the aquarium. Once the base Live Rock is in contact with the bottom you can then pack your sand around the rock. This is done to help prevent any animals from undermining the rock and then creating all the rock to shift and possibly tumble down, risking the tank breaking or getting scratched. Live Sand should be added on top of the dry sand. You want the beneficial bacteria in the live sand to be in contact with the water column.

Once your aquarium is set up it is normal to go through algae blooms. The first algae that shows up is a brown algae, then usually followed by green hairy algae. Algae can be controlled by adding 4 Astria (Florida Turbo) snails per 10 gallons.

I prefer to cycle the reef tank with crabs and shrimp, rather than fish. They tend to be less of a bio-load on the aquarium and seem to tolerate ammonia and nitrite better than fish.

Mini (Nano) reef tanks are a very good way to get your hands wet in the reef hobby. Contrary to what many people have said, small reef tanks are very easy to keep. Many of the animals are very hardy, and will live for many years.