Very High on the Big Hole
June 27-28, 2010
The summer is only a week old and seems to be absolutely screaming past. My Henry’s Fork Marathon is history and this past weekend, a trip I’ve awaited nine months, came and went so fast I can’t believe it. The trip was to the Big Hole River in Montana with friend Scott Sanchez (Chez). Chez and I were the hosts for a group of four anglers. This was a trip thought up and sponsored by Jeff Walker of Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Jeff generously donated this trip for four to the Jackson Hole One Fly Foundation to be used as a live auction item for their fundraising dinner 2009. The One Fly Foundation is famous for carefully using its funding for various stream restoration projects throughout the Rocky Mountains. Jeff’s donation included three nights lodging at the spectacular Big Hole Ranch (BHR) and two days guided fishing through the Sunrise Fly Shop of Melrose, MT. To spice it up, Jeff asked Chez and I if we would donate our time and be the hosts of this great trip. Being that neither of us is as dumb as we look, we answered without much thought, “Absolutely!”
The lucky purchasers of this fun trip were Peter and Ellen Saphire of Washington DC. As you may have guessed the Saphires' are long time customer/friends of mine and Scott’s. We were excited when we found out they got the trip because although we’ve been talking fishing with them for almost twenty years, we’ve never actually wet a line together. They brought along their twenty-six year old son Jesse, whom I’ve known since he was ten and Peters brother Andy whom we met for the first time.
We all arrived for dinner on Saturday night. For Chez and I it was a four hour drive from the Jackson area. I’ve been to the BHR before but it’s been at least eight or nine years. It was just as beautiful as I remembered it. Jeff Walker himself awaited us and our great weekend started off with some wine tasting followed by a fantastic dinner. After dinner, Andy broke out some mean cigars so we sat on the porch till 11 pm and talked.
Morning came fast with sunrise at 5:45. We had a delicious breakfast and off to the Sunrise Fly Shop we went. We had three guides waiting for us. I was excited to see that two of were old friends of mine, Chuck Page and Rick Rossi. The way the day sorted out, Ellen and I fished together with Chuck. Chez and Peter went with Rick and Jesse and Andy went with a guide named Chris. In MT, outfitters are not allowed three boats on the same stretch of the Big Hole River so Chris, Andy and Jesse went on a different stretch than the rest of us.
The weather doesn’t get much better. As if the Big Hole River isn’t beautiful enough, skies were a rich blue without a cloud in sight. The temperature was a comfortable 70 degrees with highs expected near 80. Even the mosquitoes weren’t as bad as they can be. The only hardship we faced was high water. With a huge thunderstorm that dropped heaps of rain on Friday and the first high temperatures of the year melting high country snow at an alarming rate, the Big Hole was swollen well above its banks. However, trips like this are planned far in advance so even though we knew fishing would be challenging to say the least off we went to give it our best shot.
The guides of the Sunrise Fly Shop have a longtime reputation as some of the best in the business. Chuck and Rick have been guiding the Big Hole for as long as I can remember. I knew that even under the difficult conditions everyone would get into some fish. Chuck rigged Ellen with a stonefly dry and dropped a nymph below it. Chuck would rather I did the same but I’m not much of a nympher and with the high water conditions; I was all about casting streamers. Chuck recommended his favorite bugs and I rigged them on my Ross 6-weight and my favorite streamer line, the RIO Aqualux.
Man did fishing start slow. I rolled a fish in the first minute and then we went two hours before seeing another. Chuck was in awe at the increased water levels. All the places his clients caught fish on previous days were deep underwater and our day was quickly becoming a “You should have been here yesterday event”. Finally, Ellen actually missed a take on her dry fly only to recast and catch a gorgeous brook trout on her nymph. The skunk was out of the boat!
Getting the skunk out is usually all it takes to improve the day. Sure enough, Ellen caught three more fish on her nymph. It seems what we really needed was some hot sun to get the insect life and the fish moving. I finally broke down and started nymphing from the back of the boat. I don’t use an indicator and was a little rusty at first. Then, just before the lunch spot I nailed a hefty 18” brown.
In the afternoon Ellen put on a show. While I managed to catch five fish total for the day, Ellen managed to catch at least ten. Under unbelievably tough fishing conditions she kept her fly in the water and took advantage of the very few opportunities. Just to give you an idea how tough the fishing was, our other two boats together landed a total of four fish!
On day two my fishing partner was Jesse. Jesse and I were the odd boat out and while the rest of our group went on the same stretch with Chuck and Rick, Jesse and I went with guide whom I’d never met before, Ryan Barba. Ryan moved to Melrose from Vermont and bought the Sunrise Fly Shop five years ago with his friend and business partner Eric. He’s young and enthusiastic and an excellent hard working guide. We floated from Divide through the Big Hole Canyon to Melrose. Although the water levels stabilized, the river was roaring. You had to be quick with your casting or you would miss the prime spots fast. Ryan rigged up Jesse with a salmon fly dry and no dropper. He encouraged me to use a streamer so I set up my usual double streamer rig like I’ve described in past blogs.
I could see the river was roaring, but when we pushed off it was apparent there was more water in the river than meets the eye. Ryan had to back-row his butt off just to keep us anywhere in the game of pounding our flies to the bank. Miraculously, in the first ten minutes I nailed a scrappy rainbow that not only fought hard but in his last attempt to escape jumped in the boat. Luckily I released him unharmed.
Fishing remained steady for me. I followed up the rainbow with three nice browns including one so beautiful that we stopped for several pictures. Naturally with me, anytime I see a fantastic trout I photograph it for a future painting. Things were going a little slow for Jesse so Ryan took off his dry fly and set up an indicator and two nymphs. Minutes later Jesse started landing some fish. Jesse has been fishing as long as I’ve known him so he can get the fly where it belongs. Once he got the hang of the nymph he started nailing some fish. He caught several nice browns and some trophy whitefish. We were getting it done in the difficult conditions.
The river was cranking so fast that we did the normally full day float in five hours. That was way too short for a day of fishing so Ryan took us back up river for a second float. We decided to give the dry flies a second chance and this time they worked. We weren’t exactly crushing the fish, but both Jesse and I managed to catch several more nice fish.
I waited far too long since my last visit to the Big Hole River. The Big Hole is one the great western rivers and truly one of my all-time favorites. Its scenic beauty and high population of quality trout is what makes it for me. Best of all I got to fish with old friends and new friends which is what this year is becoming all about. For now its rest up and slow this summer down. I have to finish a cutthroat painting then take Granny fishing on Wednesday.
Summer On Flies cont.
Bigerrfish and AYOTF Summer on the flies continue with this new fly we call the Fire Chicken. This painting is a 8 x 10 and all watercolors. Check out bigerrfish.blogspot.com for the recipe and a tied example of this fly done on a #22 size hook.
I think this fly will fish, but I leave it to you
Small Brookie
Here is a quick brookie sketched out and a bit of watercolors dropped in. My buddy Jason hooked into a lot of these guys in a recent trip to the WV mountains. Check out his videos at KillbilliesOutdoors.com http://www.killbilliesoutdoors.com/fishing-video.html
Time to Make Fish
June 26, 2010
I took a couple week hiatus from painting when the Henry’s Fork opened up. However, the last few days I’ve been back at it. I worked up this watercolor brown trout for customer Dan Beistel of Florida. He caught the beauty below the Flaming Gorge Dam on the Green River in April. I'll be doing a lot of painting this summer, but today it's off to the Big Hole in Montana . . . .
Redhead Soft Hackle
An 8 x 8 in. attempt at a soft hackle fly.
Also asking my fellow Bloggers out there for a bit of information on gsmnp. Planning a little trip I hope will come together for a back country trip next month to the shores of Lake Fontana. If anybody has inside knowledge of this area and is willing to share it, shoot me a line.
Of course if I can't make it to the park, there is always the waters of the Chattooga.
Random Atlantic
I was lucky enough to catch the US soccer game yesterday and enjoy a truly dramatic game winning goal in the final minutes. In a must win or be eliminated, the us rose to the challenge to quench to group. Having played four years of highschool and a few in college I try to keep up with a few teams around the world and needless to say, yesterdays victory made my day.
Anyway, enjoy this fly and try to catch the next game on the 26th.
The HF Marathon
There’s nothing like the longest days of the year. Being able to spend fifteen hours or more outdoors in daylight can’t be beat. That’s why twenty-four years ago I came up with the “Marathon”. The Marathon is basically my longest day of fishing of the year. What I mean is actual hours on the water. The Marathon always takes place in the Harriman Ranch of the Henry’s Fork River and I always fish and hike my way from the Last Chance parking lot all the way down to Osborne Bridge on Highway 20 and then back. It’s a total distance of about eight river miles.
For all these years the Marathon has taken place on the first Tuesday after the Summer Solstice because that’s been my day off for twenty-three years. On the very first one I was a young buck with young friends and we left the parking lot at 5 a.m. and fished until 11:15 p.m.! We never stopped for anything other than snacks and cigars. In fact, at that age I remember our snacks consisted of chips and warm beer. Such long hours went on for many of the early Marathons, but the last five or so years the hours have been more civilized with parking lot departures of 7 a.m. and returns of 10 p.m. – still plenty of fishing. Some years there have been as many as ten of us while others had a mere three or four. Regardless of who came over the years, the end result is one of my most enjoyable fishing days of the year.
I’ve also kept pretty good track of catch rates and river conditions. The best Marathon was about fifteen years ago. The Ranch was full of fish that were transplanted from Island Park Reservoir when it was drained to kill Utah Chubs. On that Marathon I landed a remarkable twenty-three truly big fish. A fish is not even noted during the Marathon unless it tops eighteen inches. Unfortunately like the steroid years in Major League Baseball, that year definitely has an asterisk. On a normal year, the average catch on the Marathon is three fish. Last year was my toughest in recent history with one twenty-incher of which I did not catch until 9:30 p.m.
Yesterday Granny and I arrived at the Last Chance parking lot at 7:30 a.m. Although a few friends planned to be there for Marathon 2010, it was just Granny and I. Granny normally does about a half Marathon so I suggested she relax in the morning and track me down later. I’d never done a Marathon solo and was pretty excited for it. I left the lot at 7:50 am and immediately crossed the river and walked down the far bank. It was cold and cloudy. The river was void of a hatch so conditions weren’t ideal for finding rising fish but things would improve as the day warmed up. Naturally I watched for rising fish as I walked anyway but I was really getting myself deep into the Harriman Ranch so I could make it all the way to Osborne Bridge and back before dark.
By 10 a.m. I was two miles in and hadn’t made a cast. There were no fish rising and in the Ranch you don’t blind fish. Finally, I saw my first rise at 10:15, much later than normal for June 22 on the Ranch. I waited fifteen minutes or so but the fish never rose again. I hoofed it another twenty minutes to the center of the Ranch where you find Cattleman’s Bridge. Another thirty minutes walk downstream of Cattleman’s Bridge is the famous Millionaire’s Pool. Between Cattleman’s Bridge and Millionaire’s Pool is one of the least fished sections of the Ranch. I walked downstream for about ten minutes then got comfortable on a high bank that has held fish in years past. Sure enough, I barely dug my water bottle from my pack when out in front of me a nice rainbow sipped down one of the first insects of the day. I chomped down some chicken and observed. This was by no means a feeding frenzy, but about every five or so minutes the fish rose gently, barely breaking the surface of the slow moving river.
I had the same ant on that caught me a nice fish in the Ranch on Saturday morning. I figured if it worked on Saturday why not start with it today. I waded near the trout to make my presentation. On the Henry’s Fork, I prefer to cast down-and-across to the fish. What this means is I stand upstream and away from the fish. Then I land my fly upstream of him and past him. Then I slide my dry fly into his feeding lane by raising my rod. Once I think it’s just right, I lower my rod and feed my fly to the fish. I do this repeatedly until I’m sure the rainbow gets a few good looks. A couple good drifts without an eat and I change my fly.
When fishing to trout with PHD’s in entomology, make your first cast count. Make the cast as perfectly as you can and be ready to set the hook. I got my cast right, but with my aging eyesight, I couldn’t see my ant. Sure enough the trout rose in the vicinity of my fly. On my sharper fishing days I would have immediately set the hook, but for some reason I hesitated. Big mistake, the fish did eat my ant and by the time I set the hook he’d tasted metal and spit it. I was too late and the huge fish was gone.
It was trout one, Currier nothing. Not the way I wanted to start my Marathon, but that’s the Ranch. By now there was a full blown hatch of Pale Morning Duns, March Browns, Baetis and a spattering of caddis. Theoretically it should have been easy to stumble upon another rising fish but it took at least hour of walking downstream. This next fish had a body guard. Body guards are small trout feeding ridiculously close to the larger trout that you want to catch. The fear here is that when you present your fly to the big fish, the smaller fish will beat him to it and when you hook him he will scare away the fish you want to catch. The strategy is don’t set the hook on the smaller fish. Let him swat at it till he realizes it isn’t real and doesn’t eat it again. Then you have a chance at the big guy. Sure enough, despite knowing what to do, on my first cast the dink ate my fly and I stupidly set the hook and caught the ten inch rainbow. And sure enough while fighting the body guard I spooked the larger trout.
At 3 Granny met up with me just above the Millionaires Pool, just when I found my next sizable rising fish. I set her up with a PMD and had her cast to him. On her third cast the trout ate her fly and she set the hook and missed him. That was that. We had lunch and a beer then she headed back. The hatch was over and there weren’t even small trout to cast too. I continued my walk downstream to a favorite area just above the Osborne Bridge and miraculously found some small trout to cast to. They were feeding on left over cripples and spent mayflies that hatched earlier in the day. I landed several of them and at 6 began my long four mile hike back.
The Ranch on a summer night is one of the most incredible places on Earth. Remarkably, I walked most of it tonight without seeing another single angler. That made it even better than usual. The only problem was there were no feeding fish. Usually the famous Bonefish Flats section always has at least a few rising monsters even when there’s no hatch. But tonight there were none.
At 9 p.m. I was a mile from finished and I still hadn’t caught a big fish. In all the years of doing the Marathon I’ve always got at least one big fish. I had to get one. Last year I was in the very same position and one of my favorite little nooks in the Ranch saved me. So all business, I headed to my spot.
I think there was a mere two anglers in the entire Ranch tonight and sure enough, they were both staked out in my promising location. From the distance I could see both dudes were casting to actively rising fish. Darn! I was too late. You might think if the trout are rising here, they must be everywhere, but that’s not always a guarantee. My little honey hole is like a gigantic back eddy where insect debris accumulates throughout the day. Big lazy hawgs like to swim into the area late at night and clean up what insects are left.
At 9:45 I was starved. I was exhausted and my legs were shot. Walking in waders and straining your eyes for fifteen hours takes its toll. I knew Granny was patiently waiting at the parking lot. I was sure she was starved too and she’d kill me if we missed dinner at Trout Hunter that stops serving at 11. There was also a massive thunderstorm brewing and headed our way. A skunk on the Marathon was a tough thing to swallow. I had about a ten minute walk left. As I covered the ground I scanned every inch of the bank, every rock and every slick where I’ve caught big fish before. But it was over. The fish had gone to bed, the thunder was overhead and the rain started to fall.
When I hobbled into the lot, sure enough, Granny was waiting. It was nearly dark and the rain fell harder. As I handed her my rod to put away she asked me if I finally landed a pig. When I told her I hadn’t she replied, “You were out there for nearly fifteen hours you crazy ****. I’ll bet you’re about done with this “Marathon” thing.”
“Ha”, I responded, “not a chance. Today was the best day I’ve had in a year.” And I meant it. The Ranch of the Henry’s Fork is a serious sickness and although most fly fisherman don’t understand it, getting an ass-kicking on the Ranch is what I live for. I’ll admit, a blank on the Marathon is a disappointment, but I knew I wouldn’t make it through life without one. It’s time for a few days to catch up on my art and then be ready for a report from the Big Hole. It will be nice to sit in a boat for a few days, cast big dry flies to the bank and day dream about walking the Ranch.
Green Humpy
Here is another roughly sketched fly, this one, a green bug, was done with watercolor pencil and pen.
The Leaping Blenny: A Fish Out Of Water
Below is a ventral view of the leaping blenny climbing up a upright piece of plexiglass.
Close Call!
That is till Saturday. I overdressed for the Ranch so when I returned to my car, I was sweating and desperate to get out of my waders. Knowing I was breaking a longtime rule, I put my rigged rod and reel on the roof and took off the waders. Man it was great to be out of those waders. I was starved, and sure enough without remembering my rod, I jumped in the car and made the short drive to the famous Grub Steak Grocery and got a sandwich to go.
Highway 20 has a lot of traffic, so in leaving the Grub Steak parking lot you need to be a little aggressive. I sped up to the edge of the highway and there was a car coming. I hit my brakes just hard enough for my complete outfit to slide forward. I heard the funny noise and there poking over my windshield was the tip of my Ross rod attached to my brand new Evolution LT. Make that a lesson folks!
The Seahorse: A Perfect Dad
Crane Fly
Also, For those that follow this blog you might just notice a new button near the top of the page that will direct you to another page. Buy A Fly has come as the requests for how to purchase one of these flies has grown. I have settled on a opening price for these small pieces of art of a mere $25 plus $3 shipping. The larger painting of fish are not part of this offer. Enjoy your day all you fly addicts
Orange Atlantic
Here is an Atlantic Streamer with a little orange and yellow thrown in for color. I also got a few stickers from Cameron Mortenson over at
thefiberglassmanifesto.blogspot.com the other day. A nice large one I will be adding to my collection currently clogging my Jeeps rear window. He runs a very nice blog from the midlands of South Carolina and if you got minute and haven't visited his site, drop in and tell him A Year On The Fly sent you.
Henry's Fork Day
Henry’s Fork day is a fundraising event and celebration of this great river put on by the Henry’s Fork Foundation (HFF). For over twenty-five years the HFF has protected the watershed keeping the Henry’s Fork the magnificent fishery that it is today. HFF does a lot of great things for the health of the river from simple things like build electric fences to keep cattle off the banks to balancing major water issues between anglers and ranchers. If you’re a fan of the Henry’s Fork than you should definitely be a supporter of this great organization.
We went to bed under a brilliant starry night but woke up to drizzle. Rain was not in the forecast for today so I was surprised when I woke up to it bouncing off the Explorer. With or without rain, I was bound for the Last Chance parking lot where Henry’s Fork Day takes place. This involves a series of events starting with $5 breakfast then raffles, silent auctions, casting competitions and more. I had to be home by 4 pm today because Granny and I have to attend Rob Parkins 40th birthday party tonight. (Rob is fishing buddy and has been featured on this blog several times). With that in mind, I wanted to see as many friends as possible that are here for Henry’s Fork Day over the $5 breakfast and get in a few hours fishing before leaving.
Breakfast was delicious and an enjoyable visit with friends. One friend, an amazing character, “Whitefish Ed”, always fishes in fluorescent clothes and whatever else he can get his hands on that is glowing in color. Most of his gear is even in bright colors including his rods, reels and fly lines. However, Ed’s never been able to nail down a pair of fluorescent waders. So he came up with a clever idea to raise the HFF a few bucks. He purchased a pair of new waders and bought a set of fluorescent paints. Then he charged folks a 1$ to sign the waders. He now has a gaudy pair of waders with several hundred fluorescent signatures on it. I wish I could explain Ed for you but all I can say he’s a great guy and don’t be scared if you see him on the river.
After breakfast the drizzle stopped but it was cold. I headed into the Ranch wearing layers of clothes. I walked all the way to a place we call Bonefish Flats and got comfortable on the bank to wait for some hatches and rising fish. The walk to Bonefish takes about 45 minutes and during that time the clouds burnt off completely and now I was hot. By the time I reorganized I spotted a huge rainbow rising behind an island. The river was dead calm and I could see this fishes huge head breaking the surface just munching on something. Excited, I stealthily worked my way across the river and into casting range. By now the rainbow had travelled upstream about 100ft from where I spotted him feeding. Occasionally these feeding hawgs will move all over the place while you try to present your fly to them. You think you’re to him and land your fly only to see him rise ten feet further away from you. It ends up that I chased this particular fish up and down Bonefish Flats and around an area of islands while he continued to feed and move. I never got more than a couple casts to him. My unsuccessful chase lasted four hours before the annoying fish finally stopped feeding!
Humiliated, I began the long walk back to the car. Along the way a few friends who observed my lengthy unsuccessful battle joked with me about it. We’ve all been there a time or two and it’s trout like that that makes the Ranch of the Henry’s Fork a place we love. There’s no guarantee you’re going to catch a fish no matter how good you are and any given day can be a humbling experience. Personally, I love such a fishing challenge and that’s why I go back over and over.
Just as fast as you get your butt absolutely kicked by a fish you miraculously find a cooperative one. When I was half way back to the parking lot I saw a head. There were no bugs on the water that I could see, but perhaps this fish saw something I didn’t. I watched and sure enough, I had a decent fish rising before me. I knew it was a gift from the fish Gods and got into place to present my fly. It wasn’t a complete gift. I had to change flies and the fish stopped rising for a few minutes. But, I waited him out in a desperate plea to not get skunked. Miraculously I got him to eat a flying ant pattern. He was a burly 18”er that made my morning – you got to love the Fork!
Christmas Downwing Wulff
Here is a variation of the standard Wulff sketched in colored pencil. Taking the advice of a fellow Blogger, I looked beyond the standard dry royal and 'tweeked' it. I believe I am going to try and tie this variation myself and see how it handles. Basically its your royal wulff with a red segmented green hurl body (christmas colors), red head and a bit more wing to cast a bigger above water silhouette.
The Burglar Alarm Hypothesis: The Role Of Bioluminescence
Anyone who has disturbed water at night, especially during a bloom, will have seen the intense bioluminescence produced (see picture above). But why this occurs has long been the subject of scientific query. Dinoflagellates are one planktonic group that bioluminesce, and this occurs due to deformation of their cell membrane caused by shear forces. This is often caused by intense water movement such as breaking waves or a predators swimming movements. One hypothesis is that this is a form of communication. This certainly seems to be the case when you consider that the light emitted by dinoflagellates has a maximum emission of around 475nm (blue-green), which produces light that is visible over long distances.
First Float of the Year
The Nunya is a difficult river to float. First of all there are few places to launch a boat and most launches aren’t boat launches at all. They are simply roadside pull offs with steep banks to the river. While launching, your boat it could easily escape you and literally catapult off a cliff or slide down a ravine, hit a rock and splinter into a million pieces. Luckily, today neither happened to us.
It’s peak runoff right now. That means that most the rivers in our area are high and muddy from snow melt. However, the unique thing about the Nunya is that although extremely high, it nearly always flows clear. High barely described it today. The river was roaring and at least two feet swollen above its banks. Dawes, a veteran oarsman with years of guiding experience, thankfully took the oars first. Dawes navigated us through a gnarly rock garden to start things and although I’m sure I’d of made it through, I was glad I didn’t have too. I just threw out two salmon fly dries and mended them like a mad fly fisherman. JY was in the front of the boat doing the same. Even keeping your fly close to the bank where fish will likely hold in such conditions was difficult.
It didn’t take us long to realize that we weren’t going to see much in the way of a salmon fly hatch. There were no big bugs flying around and few nymph shucks along the bank. We hoped that perhaps as we travelled downstream we might run into them but never did. What we did find were heaps of salmon fly nymphs. Every single rock you turned over had at least one salmon fly nymph crawling on it. The hatch is just about to occur.
The three of us remained too stubborn to put on a stonefly nymph. All we could do was dream about the fish hitting our two-inch long dry flies as we drifted them along the banks. Fortunately a few fish did eat them. In fact, just enough to keep us entertained. Perhaps they remember these large insects from last year or maybe they have seen a few that hatched in the last few days. Either way, it was enough action to keep us trying and we caught a surprisingly good bunch of rainbows including some nice ones.
Though we were catching some fish on the dries, Dawes couldn’t resist just seeing how well a nymph would do. The truth of the matter is that when the Nunya is truly on, you can’t keep the fish off your fly. Dawes dropped a nymph called the turd below his big dry and made a cast. Literally on his first drift he landed a small rainbow. The nymph was the ticket. Dawes and JY fished out the turd for the last mile of our float and absolutely crushed the fish.
Neither of us were disappointed that we didn’t’ fish a nymph sooner. We caught plenty of rainbows. Not only that, it was a gorgeous day. It has rained almost every day for over a month. Today was in the 70s and not a cloud in the sky. Best of all, we left the waders behind and although the river was icy cold, it was our first day of wet-wading. What a great first float of the year!